唯色：拉薩今天「雪頓」了

    
    【中國官媒報導「雪頓節展佛儀式在哲蚌寺隆重舉行」http://info.tibet.cn/news/xzxw/whhb/200808/t20080830_423277.htm】
    
    
    說是，拉薩今天在熱烈地過「雪頓節」。
    
    去拉薩旅遊的朋友說，上午去哲蚌寺看曬大佛了，10點鐘開始，12點鐘結束。
    
    問他去的人多不，他說多呢，好多藏民呢。問他抬唐卡的是什麼人，他說反正是穿紅衣服的人。
    
    當然，他們——了不起的導演們，會在拉薩上演「雪頓」這場戲的。
    
    哲蚌寺、色拉寺、甘丹寺的僧人們，已經抓了一千多，剩下不多的僧人們只能不得不出來「曬大佛」了。寺管會的命令誰敢不聽從？不去？不去的話，武警和公安就會扭送到格爾木的「關塔拉摩」那。
    
    繞木齊、沖賽康、嘎瑪袞桑那一片片藏人聚居區，被抓走的藏人有多少？膽顫心驚的藏人們只能不得不出來過「雪頓」了。居委會的命令誰敢不聽從？不去？不去的話，每年200元的肉食補貼立即取消。
    
    3·14以後，只要外國媒體來訪，退休幹部、在職幹部就會被派到寺院，假裝朝佛的信徒，圍著佛像轉啊轉。不去？不去的話，退休金取消，公職開除。等外國記者走了，那就不准再去寺院了。再去？退休金取消，公職開除。
    
    呵呵，今天，擠擠攘攘地去哲蚌、沙拉看曬大佛的人們；今天，擠擠攘攘地去羅布林卡看「拉姆」的人們，假啊假，假作真時真亦假，什麼都是假的，連心也是假的，只有淚水是真的，淚往心裡流。
    
    呵呵，動作真夠快的，新華社的消息已經出來了，說拉薩人民「喜迎雪頓節」呢。中國西藏信息中心的照片也出來了，去年展佛時勒令取消的藏戲，今年展佛時又變魔術般的出現了，竟然厚顏聲稱是「傳統儀式」，真健忘啊，怎麼去年就不繼承「傳統」呢？
    
    有人說：今日中國——「小康小康是假，宗教宗教是假，改革改革是假，開放開放是假，發展發展是假」，我得說：今日拉薩——雪頓雪頓是假！和諧和諧是假！
    
    2008-8-30
    
    附一篇寫去年「雪頓」的文章：
    
    今年「雪頓」不正常
    
    文/ 唯色
    
    8月12日上午，巨大的釋迦牟尼佛像唐卡在拉薩著名的哲蚌寺遲遲展出，數萬信徒和中外遊客在場，許多藏人已察覺出與往年相比很異常。而官方媒體的報導卻是一片讚美盛世佳節的歡聲，並用張張絢麗的圖片烘托氣氛。不過細看圖片，抬唐卡上山和展示唐卡的大多是穿俗裝的普通人，傳統上，承擔這些事務的必是數百名穿袈裟的僧侶。
    
    哲蚌寺展佛是西藏重要的宗教節日——「雪頓」的序幕。從1642年起，每年藏曆6月30日，拉薩百姓會前往哲蚌寺，向恪守戒律的僧人奉獻酸奶，附近各地擅長藏戲的民眾也會帶上面具和彩衣趕來演出。隨著藏戲鼓點急促響起，寺院僧侶會在法號和誦經聲中舉行盛大法會，並從大殿中抬出錦緞繡制的巨幅唐卡，在旭日照耀的山坡上展開，慰藉眾生心靈。隨後，各地藏戲演員會在達賴喇嘛的夏宮——羅布林卡演出多日，以示隆重的供奉。這個從相互施捨中得到快樂的節日，在上世紀六七十年代，被毛澤東發動的運動中斷多年。
    
    如今的西藏雖又恢復諸多的傳統節日，但在同一個政權的控制之下，往往徒有虛名。原本嚴格的傳承、固定的時間和完整的程序，隨時被要求根據形勢的變化增添、刪減或調整，得不到絲毫尊重。如近年來，在商業化的衝擊下，「雪頓」這個宗教節日已演變為商業節日，當局的口號是「文化搭台，經貿唱戲」，實則是 「宗教搭台，經貿唱戲」，神聖的展佛則成了吸引「招商引資」和標榜信仰自由的表演節目。
    
    而今年「雪頓」所遭到的打擊可謂文革之後最嚴重。「雪頓」前夕，當局勒令取消展佛之前的藏戲演出，理由是場地小，人太多，擔心發生意外。這個決定震驚了哲蚌寺，僧侶們表示如果取消傳統藏戲，那麼「雪頓」就不成其為「雪頓」了；更有喇嘛大膽直言：這些年來，西藏的宗教活動一個個被取締，西藏的宗教權利一項項被剝奪，而我們已經不得不放棄了「默朗欽莫」（藏曆新年的祈願大法會）、「江央貢卻」（冬季辨經大法會），現在又要在展佛時放棄「拉姆」（藏戲），這是再也不能服從的。於是僧人們採取的對策是拒不參加展佛。
    
    按慣例，展佛時間應是太陽初升之時，當眾僧把巨幅唐卡緩緩展開，金色陽光恰好照耀在美麗的佛顏上，顯得無比輝煌。如此壯美景象，我曾幾次目睹，深受震撼。如此壯美景象，穿絳紅袈裟的眾僧絕對是其中一部分，不可缺少也不可替代。所以當太陽升起良久，等候展佛的信眾和遊客布滿哲蚌寺的後山，而僧人們集體閉門不出，令當局有關部門大為惱怒。據說後來是在軟硬兼施之下，才有十多名僧人與一群維持秩序的保全人員，匆匆地從大殿裡抬出了唐卡，並在沒有藏戲演出也沒有專門法會的情形下，匆匆地在山崖上展開了唐卡。哲蚌寺的一位喇嘛對我說：「像這樣沒有舉行任何儀式的展佛，從無先例。」
    
    （RFA藏語專題節目）
    
    2007-9-4
    
    轉貼RFA的英文報導：
    
    Tibetan Monks Still Held in Qinghai
    
    RFA[Friday, August 29, 2008 15:54]
    Months after widespread Tibetan protests against Chinese rule, hundreds of monks are detained in Qinghai.
    
    LHASA, Tibet: Chinese policeman keeps watch on crowd as Tibetan Buddhist monks chant prayers at Drepung monastery, August 2003. (Photo: AFP)
    KATHMANDU — Hundreds of Tibetan monks detained after widespread protests against Chinese rule earlier this year were deported from the Tibetan capital Lhasa to remote Qinghai province, where they remain in custody, according to Tibetan sources.
    
    Monks from two major Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, Sera and Drepung, both in the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR), may have been targeted because they were seen as playing a leading role in the demonstrations, the sources said.
    
    Many came to study at the two monasteries near Lhasa from remote areas in eastern Tibet where the Kham and Amdo dialects are spoken.
    
    A smaller group of monks was removed from another monastery, Ganden, and taken into detention with the others, the sources said, speaking on condition of anonymity.
    
    Unrest erupted in Lhasa on March 14 after four days of peaceful protests, turning into a day of riots targeting Han Chinese residents and businesses. China reacted by sending in a large force of paramilitary People’s Armed Police to quell the unrest, sealing off the TAR and Tibetan-populated regions of China from contact with the outside world.
    
    Exiled Tibetan leaders say 203 people died in the violence that followed, while Beijing says 22 people died, only one of them Tibetan.
    
    Train from Lhasa
    
    According to an authoritative source who spoke on condition of anonymity, 675 Tibetan monks from the three targeted monasteries were put on a train from Lhasa on April 25.
    
    「Among those 675 monks, 405 were from Drepung, 205 were from Sera, and eight were from Ganden,」 the source said. The remaining 57 monks from outlying areas were said to have been taken from smaller Lhasa monasteries.
    
    「They were transported to a military detention center in Golmud」 in the Haixi [in Tibetan, Tsonub] Mongol and Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Qinghai, the source said.
    
    「All the monks who came originally from the Qinghai region were [then] deported to their respective towns. They are still detained there in their hometown prisons or detention centers.」
    
    They were escorted home from Golmud by officials from the Qinghai United Front and Religious Affairs Bureau, according to the source.
    
    Monks who came originally from monasteries in the still-troubled region of Kham in Sichuan province are still being held in Golmud, however, the source said. The number of those still in detention cannot be independently confirmed.
    
    Three groups
    
    The monks were rounded up in three groups, the source said.
    
    「On April 10 in the afternoon, security forces detained 550 monks from Drepung monastery, took them to the Nyethang Military School, and detained them on the school campus.」
    
    「Then, on the night of April 14, a huge contingent of Chinese security forces arrived at Sera monastery and took away about 400 monks and detained them at a military prison in Tsal Gungthang,」 about 20 kms (12 miles) east of Lhasa, the source said.
    
    「On April 17, a group of monks from Ganden was also rounded up and detained somewhere in Lhasa,」 the source added.
    
    All those detained were reported to have suffered harsh treatment, including beatings, while in prison.
    
    「Twenty-four monks from Drepung and Sera monasteries remain in detention at the Nationalities Middle School in the Marpa subdivision of Rebgong in Qinghai province, where they have been held since July 25」 after being moved from Lhasa in April, the source said.
    
    Held in a house
    
    Another source with contacts in the region said that a small group of monks from monasteries in Sogpo county in the Malho [in Chinese, Huangnan] Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture of Qinghai had been studying in Lhasa monasteries at the time of the unrest.
    
    「Recently, they were found detained in a house close to the Sogpo county center,」 he said. 「They had not been put into prisons but were under some kind of house arrest. Later, we learned that they had been taken into detention in Golmud in April.」
    
    「They are not allowed to leave, but their family members and relatives can see them at the house where they are being held.」
    
    「There were about 30 to 40 monks studying in Lhasa who had come from different monasteries in Gepasumdo [in Chinese, Tongde] county」 in the Tsolho [in Chinese, Hainan] Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Qinghai, the source said.
    
    「There were 20 monks from Tsang monastery alone who were studying at Sera. We were told that all of them were detained.」
    
    Brother held
    
    A Tibetan woman living in Rebgong [in Chinese, Tongren] county in the Malho Prefecture said she had learned that her brother, a monk studying in Lhasa, had been taken to the Golmud City Detention Center.
    
    「As you know, he was from Kirti monastery in Aba [in Tibetan, Ngaba] Prefecture [in Sichuan], but was at Sera monastery in Lhasa at the time of the March protests,」 she said. 「We couldn’t trace him for a long time.」
    
    Lhasa monasteries generally take in many monks from outlying areas, including Qinghai province. 「That’s always been the case, historically,」 Tibet expert Robbie Barnett, based at Columbia University in New York, said.
    
    These monasteries 「have colleges that are specifically designed, and have been for centuries, to accommodate people from those areas,」 he added. Efforts beginning in 1994 to stop this practice have largely proven unsuccessful, Barnett said.
    
    Barnett cited reports that the Lhasa protests that began March 10 comprised monks from the Amdo Tibetan area in Qinghai province.
    
    「Some people have said that this was quite definitely the case. And some people have said that this was also true of the Sera and Drepung [demonstrations] on the other two days,」 he said, but added:
    
    「I don’t know how strong the evidence is for that.」
    
    Contacted by Radio Free Asia, officials at the Sera Monastery Management Committee hung up the phone, while officials at the Drepung Monastery Management Committee refused to speak to RFA reporters.
    
    Officials at the Huangnan Prefecture Public Security Bureau denied knowledge of any monks being held at the Nationalities Middle School in Rebgong.
    
    Original reporting by RFA’s Tibetan service. Translations by Karma Dorjee. Tibetan service director: Jigme Ngapo. Written and produced in English by Sarah Jackson-Han. Edited by Luisetta Mudie and Richard Finney.